The house of the rising sun
Samuel parked in 25 de Mayo after crossing Deloqui. 25 de Mayo is the road from the waterfront (Av Maipu) salt inerpicanosi the mountains where it grows Ushuaia. The handbrake is broken. Leave your car with the right rear wheel sideways against the curb, so as to avoid the car, "slides" down. Samuel out of the car, I "facilitates" the backpack, kissed me, embraced me and tells me "Querido, you que vaya bien! Suerte Carlos." How many times now, and I said I heard you say this eparole .. Like a formuletta .. But I'm not sorry, indeed. It 's normal .. if you see one with a backpack around the world, you are not to be hoped "good luck"? And 'they' alone, absolutely innocent, incredibly human, who knows what is before us. It is natural to hope that "fits". Perhaps, indeed, we were all able to see us harmless, and on the go, so 'all hope from each other a "good way".
Samuel powerfully puts in motion the vox 782 and disappears around the corner, raising his left hand out the window as a sign of farewell. In 630 there
Deloqui 'the Cruz del Sur, the hostel where I have some day-to-date with Gobbo. "Hello Charles, I'm in Ushuaia at the Cruz del Sur, the owner is an Italian, and 'all full, for now I have the type placed on a the bench without pay, by tomorrow I should have a bed. "So stated, roughly, his mail. The fact that you take without pay because it 's all full, let me think well. By.
Gobbo I meet him quite by chance in the bathroom of the bus terminal in Puerto Madryn, a few weeks ago. As I enter to do the pee 'he is washing his face. We look at widening GFI astonished eyes and laughs, "but fuck! What are you doing here? "" What do-you-here! "C'abbracciamo and we salute you. Gobbo known him for ten years, but not 'exactly my" friend "in the true sense of the term . Surely, however, 'is one of the best friends of one of my more' dear friends. What is property? transitive more 'that switch, no? Oh well .. bullshit. It 's great friend of Homo technologicus Bb, a classic example dell'uopmo who manages to make its service technology. E 'and the person who' failed in its mission to bring my mother to the Internet. Cosi ', just for instance about his miraculous abilities. Until a few years ago, we divided the Ravizza Park, now (that '.. not just "now") between the buildings and Via XXII Marzo Archimedes.
The world knows him as Fred BIERTI. I knew him in the fall of 1993. I did my first party at a Saturday evening with the owners of the school. My parents were outside Milan. In the fashion of that time was raging "festesfascio. The parents were leaving for the weekend, or coming out per cena, e al ritorno ritrovavano la casa distrutta, devastata dalle azioni degli invitati (e non) del figliolo liceale. "Noi ti diamo fiducia" mi era stato detto, "hai promesso che sarete al massimo una decina.. Non di piu', Carlo , eh?? Lo sai cosa succede in giro, no??? Fai in modo che lo sappiano solo i tuoi amici". "Sì, lo prometto."
Eravamo una cinquantina. Il giorno dopo avrei dovuto raccontare che "Mamma.. non so come ma.. mentre stavo prendendo un ciddi' mi sono voltato di scatto e con il gomito ho preso dentro la porta di vetro che si e' frantumata" "Davvero, mamma, scusami.. ma e' successo cosi'.. tra l'altro non mi sembrava di averla colpita tanto forte". Nella prima telefonata di domenica non avevo detto nulla per simulare ancor meglio (vanamente) che "l'incedente domestico" non era occorso durante la festicciola, ma in una tranquilla domenica casalinga. A reato prescritto i miei avrebbero poi saputo che era stato tale Mascherpa ad infilarsi in quel vetro, lasciando chiazze(ttine) del suo sangue sul mio tappeto verde e bianco.
E l'Homo Technologicus?? Si. Tra i -non proprio-invitati c'e' Matteo (un tipo arrivato con Gaio Gaiani) che dopo aver visto la mia stanza mi dice "Oh!! cioè.. lunedi' a scuola ti devo troppo dare il numero di un tipo che e' pazzo per "Spristin" come te". Lunedi mi da il numero, io lo chiamo ma risponde solo una segreteria telefonica con su un pezzo del live 75-85. Rimango piacevolmente colpito, lascio il message and he calls me back in the evening. Without cell phones so it was' .. and was not terribly complicated. The morning after is to my house to do "exchanges". Takes me three boxes of Rome and the video of Verona 05.25.1993 (11.04.1993). He comes home with thirty Cidda '. Over the years, and the development tyecnologico it would be largely "free from debt," he-attorney-registration succulent. Bb and 'one of the founders of Cumpabboy, cheerful, colorful and lively body member to' pursuit of that dream.
All this to say for some odd reason which I now find myself in front of the Hostel Cruz del Sur, Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego.
"Ahh! You're the friend of Paul!" tells me the owner. Paul? Gobbo, I know you call! You know when you know someone for years and then discover his real name? Type Toothpick he called at my house said he was leaving "Maxine". "He called Maximilian" I was told to return home. "And who the fuck is' Maximilian??" I thought .. Then even the family began to say, 'Ah, but you're Toothpick! " "Well, yes sir ..". Would inevitably occurred then another Massimiliano call home. "Ah, but you're Toothpick!" "No, Maximilian." "But you're not Toothpick?" "No I'm sorry, I Massimiliano" "Oh, okay .. so I say to Charles, who you called" my mother or my sister ended almost disappointed. However
. "Yes, 'I am, I'm the friend of Paul." The kind, very gentle, leads me into the room. Classic 8 people in 4 bunk beds. Gobbo has not yet returned from the national park. I sleep in the room and he and 6 other isrealiani. There are lockers and all are closed with a padlock. I have not got the lock and ask what it 'atmosphere. It 's the first time since I left I arrive in a room where everyone to lock their belongings. There 's a boy, Tarik, I had a mini lucchettino in piu'. "You know .. if in doubt, and 'he should be," I thank him and out audio and video players in the cabinet. I go to the supermarket and buy something to find a better pasta Gobbo. While
cook penne peppers, I begin to know Luke, the owner of the hostel. He has little more 'than thirty years, and' di Bari, and 'come here for the first time in 98 years and a half and three "holds up the cabin." Un'italianissima is cooking pasta with eggplant and then to offer some ostellante. I am delighted that today shows the basil and 'able to find. It's always so ': prepares food for himself' and the abundant leftovers sells them to those who wish to try a bit 'of Italian comida. Meanwhile, he sips red wine (good) in his big glass and smoke his cigar. The Cruz del Sur and 'home. On the walls are photos of his trips, when the first Siberian was nineteen years old, the Antarctica two years ago. Also on each cabinet There 'a photo of him taken in quaclhe the world. Even in the bathrooms. The hostel and 'full of photos, postcards, maps, messages left by travelers. With the passage of time is not 'been difficult to implement that Luke and' one-person-at least particular. Say it is a 'big' does not seem exaggerated. He lives in the hostel. This means that the same 8 kitchen stove on which they feed another 35 people. (You try standing in a kitchen of two meters by three more with at least 15 people). And it means that your room and 'the "library" or "reading room" where people go to "svaccarsi. It also means that your bathroom and 'ostellanti of the bathroom. His wardrobe and 'a black suitcase on the floor of "reading room ", more 'two or three shirts hung on crutches to a ledge on the ceiling. His bed and' day on a mattress that is against the wall, at night on the ground. His refrigerator and 'the common, at least 4 minutes spends a day looking for her things between them bags' are stored. And of course not 'assume that in the end are. I really think that has an incredible patience.
It' s not been easy for him to start this adventure, including why you say that if they can not 'go there is the possibility that someone else enters the hostel.'s and' already 'success. Two years ago,' was knocked out to "kick ass" in front of ostellanti disbelief. Then there 'was the process and the court's fueghino has been proved right. Among the very few people there that says to trust 'Pablo. Pablo and 'beautiful. Blacks hair long and wild, wild beard and lace along the long, thin, thin, white, white, blacks and good eyes. A sense of humor that I really like. The main reason for the beauty of Pablo 'his black T-shirt The Ramones. He most 'that shirt go great together. That 's your favorite shirt. This can 'wear for six days in a row. Pablo and 'the aide-de Luca. You and 'epro' in love with a Swiss who had stayed at the Cruz del Sur in early March, the raggiunger'a in Neuquen. Luca 's a bit worried about finding someone else to rely on. There is no 'problem .. Pablo has thought of everything. His friend Leonard will replace him. If you ask Luke why he chose this "strange" the answer is "I did not choose .. and I 'was imposed it works ..' .. what can you do?!? That 'Ushuaia!" and laughs. A Luca, Ushuaia actually seems to like. Back from the mail and says "I was there 'in the queue, never stopped .. then I looked up and saw the mountains and the Beagle Channel, I always wanted to see .. what more do I want'?" . Especially if you can find in the hostel since October flags, Canadian maple syrup and a cup of coffee in a bar in Montreal. From October
Luke and 'engaged to a Canadian girl who had passed from the hostel. Born did not think something important (indeed, they had not even sbaciucchiati), poi lei lo ha chiamato da Santiago del Chile ed e' ritornata ad Ushuaia per stare con lui. Da Aprile vivranno insieme. Prima viaggeranno tra Italia e Turchia, poi cercheranno di trovarsi una casetta ad Ushuaia. Pablo, dovrebbe diventare "gestore" durante i mesi estivi; al ritorno i due lavoreranno li' mentre Pablo terrá sotto controllo la situazione prendendo la stanza (il materasso) di Luca. Il nostro caro barese e' fatto, e' innamorato, non capisce piu' un cazzo. Ed e' contento. Tanto. E' bello vederlo mentre si beve il caffe' nella "sua" tazzina, mettere la spilletta del Canada sulla camicia, stare ore davanti al computer per scrivere mail, raccontarti dei regali che lei gli ha fatto quando e' andato a trovarla. E' good to see him excited about the culture of another country. I'm really happy for him, reminds me of old situations. Situations which now remain only a ball and some "relics". The ball is 'one of those with water, the glitter, in with the "boy who pees'" laying under the word "Belgium". He's in my kitchen cabinet on top of which there are all the presents (trash) in the years that I brought as a gift. The "relics" are slowly disappearing from my house, a gray sweatshirt on a chair there and let 'remained for months, some of elastic hair is still in a drawer in the bathroom, still in the bathroom as there is' a pack of wet wipes with written in Dutch. The Cidda 'by David Bowie Elvis Costello and the big Lebowski OST are not relics. No, they consider a "compensation". What the fuck! Compensation
say that was more 'for actual damages for lost profits. I think, in fact, that many good things happened to me is still a nice letter after I had come from the Gulf of Guinea in December 2003. First of all, this trip. Only. Who cares if we had us around the world together and she has just concluded. I'm here, I'm fine. And really.
I spend days at Ushuaia fast. One morning I Gobbo and we are moving towards the mountains and arrived in the extreme outskirts of the city (this place has 50000 inhabitants) we encounter a group of thugs that play football on a pitch. Phenomena are, well played bad. Apart from the challenge. There we give two and four against four. Come their peers, they too frightening, are large and have faces that "not bode well." Start a mini tournament that lasts from 12 to 16. "The winner remains." We lose the first few games but "we're not." In the last two games we play "cum grano salis" (Silvio!! Learn it well you do look great! .. Pero 'tell it well, eh?), Tactically flawless, the dribbling of Donadoni, the fantasy of Falcao, the grit of The Captain, the patience of Vignola and the rapacity of Diaz. All dressed also by the wisdom of Luvanor. You get to 3. About 2 to 2 except in acrobatics (raga '.. real stunt, I was also hurt but there was half of the honor) their goals already. We win. They begin to be less polite .. we make fun of (thinking that we do not understand) telling us that we were Italian, who think only of defending. Beginning of hard revenue, shoulders, bad actions. The game later, we are cynical: 3 to 0 and dry. Gobbo and I are excited, the guys are starting to piss. They want revenge. Sorry, we have to go. To tell the truth now the wind was "broken", we could make more. But it 's so nice to get out'. From winners.
(above you can see the photo with the thugs)
Sue is one of those people they hit. He has written on the register hostel, under the column "ETAD, the number 32. His years in reality it is 64, complains to Luke (who had asked him to put the old "true") to the fact that age is impolite to ask a "lady". Luke, however, to her attention. In fact, we know that the hostel does not like that Duen mariujana fumes. One day she was locked in a windowless bathroom to smoke a leek. The hall was draped in a strong and unmistakable smell aromatic. He comes up and says, "but now how the hell do I get angry with a lady of 64 years and blame her because you're making a barrel?" "I do not know Luke .. move down 'and you tell him" no no! I found! " tells me excited tone with his classic "Now I'm going down 'and spray the air freshener from inside the hole for the key!, so' and I do understand the figure of what it alleges a potrrebbe be his mother. I'm sorry but what can I do? here as soon as someone complains about the risk of finding myself in the Federal hostel! Casini I have too many already. "
When you hear Sue and plays all his stories, it is natural to ask "But Sue, I'm sorry ... but you, how are you traveling?" His answer is' "Since '95". From
thousand nine hundred .. we are in March 2006.
Well .. of people I've met her, but finding someone who has been traveling for 11 years .. that I had not yet success. "From ninetyfive" nodding his white head and blue eyes .. I will remember this'. Initially I thought he was away from England for reasons of tax, "but then 'I have known better and I understand. He lives with his retired English "From what I prefer to travel to do. Then I must go and see my daughters and my sons. Especially one who is in India and the damned, who is in Australia. Then, however, two Christmases ago, I was for two weeks in London with my two sons to do the holidays together, "we are at a table with other children. The joke and 'inevitable: "But Sue! Then you're a bit' like Mick Jagger! You have children around the world!" great laughter of the diners. She also seems amused, smiles. After a few days but 'I understand that-for her-I was not exactly fun. Late one evening, after he swill a bit ', he confides that his two daughters are heroin addicts and in particular has problems with the "Australian", which has 5 children. He tells me that even bad situations, and 'found to live over there' in the countryside near Melbourne .. For this reason and Sue 'often between India and Australia. Even Sue, actually seems to have some "weakness". The lady, in fact, drinks, even if not at an alarming rate. In two weeks time we gave more 'inside and' state when you are 'annoyed a bottle of whiskey in two days. The fact is that he does not drink much at night, drinking in the afternoon. Brian is a Chinese
Canadian passport holders living in NYC. When I slept in the room before trekking 2sopra "was my roommate. And 'a man of some fifty years with a green sweater and a dark leather jacket, and' high and is' a softie. Every time he does something to eat we shall try to do it to me and Luke, and 'a little' pressing. When you see your drinking whiskey gently scolds her, she is not offended. Brian found this hostel and it was' in love. Do you think that after 5 days had gone to stay with the plane in Buenos Aires .. the day after he returned to Luke, saying that they 'will', felt at home.
When I meet Sue in the Internet point to play solitaire for hours or between the glasses and passed entire afternoons sudoku, I feel a bit 'tenderness. That is really "worth." But then I think of how many people no longer 'young people spend so' their lives. With no sun, from morning to evening. So the "punishment" becomes "respect" for his choice. How many people live like her? Few, the vast majority lives worse (you-for once-a real understanding of the proportions existing especially in large urban centers). She wakes up every week in a different place, is always surrounded by children, from living people, people who travel. I also know that many older people and those who would pay, just to meet a person other than a week to exchange a few words. We who live in cities We should take note, without closing his eyes. Now you die of loneliness. There are people dying and the only ones who realize it are close to the smell of rotting corpse.
Sue decided not to stay there, do not say that his life for me is "exemplary", but 'with her choice, from an old one among millions of people has become a preferred indifferent. Surely that not all pension of 500 pounds if they can "afford", but some of them '. She reacted. I'm not saying it's the best reaction. But he reacted. And 'maybe the only reason that I respect.
... and if it gets too hot moves, and do not even have the humiliation of being told by some minister of "go to the supermarket or at the mall. "
Ushuaia is the classic place where tourists stop for travelers no more 'than two or three days, so you can say that they were in the southernmost city in the world. Raga' is fantastic .. being able to stop in this place for as long as you want! I have the opportunity to better understand the social dynamics and the stories of Luke are very useful to understand how life really takes place down there. Furthermore, the landscape that stretches from the Beagle channel seems to be "not never be enough. "
The weather is always changing. It can 'be full of gray clouds, and after half an hour can be crystal clear, with a few white clouds all moving at different heights on the green cold waters in which some vessels lie rusting and abandoned. Behind him and to the east there are mountains and glaciers, you see shades of green, brown and blue, more 'colorful South American and the white houses of the ice and sky. The play of colors, which then the sun passing through the clouds at sunset and at dawn .. those do not even try to explain them. Ie '.. "I'll explain it" (ndCampoVecchio01)
National Park is an excellent base for excursions. From birth there with Moses to make dell'Ovieja Paso. Moses met him at the John Lennon pub, the place where there seems to be the best wave, Avenida Maipú. It 's a place not much frequented by ostellanti who seem to prefer the classico "Irish Pub" dove spesso passano la musica di Bob Marley. (Ma devi arrivare fin quaggiu' per ascoltarti "Legend" in un pub irlandese?? A parte che Legend penso ce l'abbia il 90% dei ragazzi.. un po' come nel decennio passato la o.s.t. di Trainspotting). Non nego che anche a me e' capitato all'inizio di andare all'Irish pub.. pero' l'ho fatto per vedermi il Milan in Champions e una sera con Gobbo perche' pareva l'unico pub aperto dopo le 3!!
Comunque.. Moses é messicano, parla bene l'inglese e studia architettura, porta capelli lunghi e occhiali ed é un pochino cicciottello. Partiamo un tardo pomeriggio per il nostro trekking. In teoria e' una camminata di una dozzina di ore che noi preferiamo dividere in two days. It seems that the path is more 'beat-and-then more' tracks of which there is here. Not experience particular difficulties and indeed we have a nice ass blow. In fact, after you meet the wrong road after only 15 minutes a couple of Canadians who come back saying that there is nothing la'non. This was not the right direction. The track is not 'so' clear and now the two meet us to avoid a few hours walk useless. In the evening we make two nice steaks on the grill that has led chicomexico. Since the walk is not 'particularly challenging, we also carry the Piquette (bowls weigh, raga'!!). We spend a nice evening and also the other ten people presenti nell'unico posto dove é permesso il campeggio sono simpa simpa; ci si diverte.
Tornati in "Ushuaia downtown" ci salutiamo, lui domani parte verso Calafate a vedere il Perito Moreno. Mi dice che in realtá non ha voglia di buttarsi in mezzo a quelle migliaia di persone ma che se non ci va "Mi abuela me mata!!". "Suerte Moses, Que te vaya bien!", ancora.
Un' altra camminata, questa una "cazzatina", e' la scampagnata al ghiacciaio. Meno di una decina di chilometri, addentrandosi tra le case e i boschi di Ushuaia, per arrivare all'inizio del sentiero. Poi, si inizia a salire e in meno di due ore sei su'. Da su' vedi tutto. Il Canale di Beagle lo vedi nella sua interezza e la Isla Navarino, di fronte, e' nitida, sembra aspettarti. E' li' che voglio andare. C'e' un trekking di 5 giorni da fare laggiu'. La vedo. In realtá vedo anche le aguzze cime rocciose, alcuni innevate, che si stagliano alte e solenni in quell'ultima parte di Cile tra il Beagle e Capo Horn. Quelli sono i "Denti di Navarino". Da cui il nome "Circuito de los dientes". In teoria non sono piu' cosi' tanto sicuro di voler camminare laggiu'.. non sembra facilissimo.. anzi. In pratica, pero', solo l'idea di vedermeli davanti e vedermeli "difficili" mi fa salire una voglia che.. "stai male".
Al ghiacciaio vado con una carinissima coppia di israeliani e due tedeschi: Jenny e Sebastian, due simpaticissimi ventenni che erano anche al Backpacker's. Li 'to Punta Arenas were always the last to go to bed (the hostel we close them) and-consequently-the last to get up. He always ate a lot. They are the classic pair that really is not 'a couple. Mah!, And 'full of people who travel his-hers that seem to "delinquent" and yet they are not. Usually, but not appear in this case, and an 'a bit' more '"attentive" to the other.
Sebastian kidding me 'cause I'm dressed in the last two weeks-he says-in the same way. Thanks to the cock! how should I dress if it's cold and I have the stuff to dress in layers? I make him the pleasure to put no more 'golf green under the blue sweatshirt (with hood), but the blue sweatshirt under il golf verde con il cappuccio che esce fuori. La felpa blu con cappuccio merita l'excursus.
Dunque: la felpa non e' esattamente mia. Diciamo che comunque l'ho usucapita. Marzo 1996, seconda liceo, uscito da scuola un'ora prima, mi devo precipitare da Ricordi. Domani mattina vendono i biglietti per Springsteen allo Smeraldo, già ieri all'alba eravamo in fila ma non se ne è fatto niente. Ho nello zaino il sacco a pelo e qualcosa per passare la notte. Maite mi fa notare che forse avro' freddo. Mi presta la sua felpa. Maite entra in classe nostra a settembre del terzo anno, prima liceo classico. Girava voce che arrivasse gente nuova quell'anno. Con alcuni compagni siamo andati a vedere i tabelloni per captare tra i nomi nuovi some "essence of pussy." In the second half of the appeal there was this new name: "Maite Pipparelli.
With all the ignorance and can grezzezza had wasted the comments .. to put it in a civilized manner, we thought it was an Indian with a name is not "lucky." We were ready to beat the barracks and tricks by grandparents (Yes.. We had the same age, but for length of ID belonged to us!). The first day of school comes a girl with huge boobs, labbrona, a beautiful smile and beautiful green eyes. The seat was not exactly a "culettino" but on the whole more 'acceptable. "Who are you?" "Hello, I'm Maite" "Ah ..."
do not know how, but would bring a breath of "fresh" in the classroom. After a few days I also saw that he kept as a bookmark of his "Smemo (ragà. the Smemo ..!) A cartofoto Bruce (I think it was a photo taken from Milan 21.6.85). Hello ...
One of the last times I saw her was in October, for a dinner at his house. On that occasion, I, his brother and another character is highly unlikely we were the only heterosexual male. She was telling me, Vera, Vale Siusy nipple and one of his latest "conquest" (always bad, the character issue "on 'said'). My comment has been "Maite .. I will burn.." His reply, hugging and laughing ".. you know that Charles did not let anyone else to tell me so 'but you said .. I feel rather pleased. "To be honest we never more 'of much popular but' there has always been a relationship of true affection, the same that I feel for all those wonderful people in our class.
Oh well .. Memories arrived, I found Bb (we went out to Einstein "and ten" in the Berchet "and twenty") who already 'had taken hold of the situation, creating a "list". After a day I was holding the front row tickets for Mr. Springsteen at the Teatro Smeraldo. Ah! date! all this took place Thursday, March 14, 1996. In a row, in fact I remember the set list that ran in Stockholm. That was a Thursday, 'I am sure that That year he played in Stockholm ... even the 13.03! Maite I would see for years with his sweater on him. She does not ever put it on, it seems to me that lately he also said.
dell'excursus I apologize for the verbosity, but from a distance I like to look at all these things together. That's it.
We Sebastian .. he seems to listen to my clothes and when he sees me for 3 days in a row with the 17 shirt I jokingly asked me "but I really like that shirt!" "A) I like it so what!? B) I have three identical .. there 's something wrong?" The kraut will also be young, but has a craze for clothing. One day I was walking with him to San Martin in Ushuaia and has wanted to enter a store to buy a shirt. Nothing wrong with that, but 'I waited outside. There he 'was bad, I explained that it was nothing personal, just and' more 'stronger than me. I am not able to do and I hate shopping-compras. There 'no way, m'innervosisco. Try to explain that why I'm dressed more 'or less in the same way for a decade and I always buy the same shoes. (Athletic: adidas country-smooth-soled, non-zigliglinata blue with white stripes 46 of e1 / 3 more than the white with blue stripes. "Elegant" dr. Martin's low opaque black No. 44 - 441 / 2 ) And 'more' comfortable, are "your" shoes, you know that you are doing well (in the sense that they fit well) and you do not mental masturbations on what to buy. Come in, ask and buy. In less than five minutes you have paid the "shoe problem".
now the desire of the trek to the island Navarino is skyrocketing. These days I tried to ask a bit 'of people but none showed interest, if only for the price not really a friend of the sea crossing. At least I like to think so, but maybe I was not that I was a genius!
Start waiting for the arrival of Julia and Nico, two guys who I met in Buenos Aires fifty days ago. They are in Argentina to make a documentary on the "Madres de Plaza de Mayo" and girarsela a bit '. She is the daughter of neighbors of my aunt's house in Rome. My aunt, my left mail and we met one evening at Plaza Dorrego in San Telmo. On that occasion I also met his friend Nico. Raga .. I was just the kind sympathy incredible .. she looks like a nice person even if - 'and is evidently the opposite of me. It is not true that it seems to me, "the opposite of me" .. indeed on many things but that seems to be no different affinities' attitudes and considerations lead to the opposite. The fact is that we stayed in touch for this trek with us, and because almost all advise against doing it yourself. When I was in Buenos Aires I was thinking more 'to trek to Paine, but then I realized the "population density" of that path and I folded up the most' difficult to Navarino. Giulia, pur non avendo mai fatto un trekking, é sempre stata per "el circuito de los dientes". I due miei nuovi amichetti arrivano ad Ushuaia, é un piacere reincontrarli. Lui, con la sua ironia e il suo fare cattivo mi mette di ottimo umore, davvero. Loro sono i miei amici cattivi-"antagonisti". Io, il loro amico "cattocomunista".
Scopro che Nico non e' esattamente uno sportivo e che soffre di vertigini. Lui non viene. Sabato 4 marzo, io e Giulia partiamo per "el circuito de los dientes". (nel prossimo post il racconto di quei fantastici 5 giorni).
Non ho detto una cosa: Luca, che ha una forte somiglianza con Jack Nicholson, ha scritto tre libri. L'ultimo si chiama "jump seat", é a tratti autobiografico and there is good or bad the story of the hostel, people who have made "alive". I read in an afternoon, and 'was really interesting. The second book is called instead of "Christmas in Comodoro Rivadavia" and was published by Sellerio a couple of years ago. Some of the characters in the stories of Luke and I had the fortune to meet "live". One of them is Gary, a Swiss fifty pounds a plenty with missing teeth on the right side of the mandible. Arrive at the hostel while they are at Navarino. I know him to return.
A person like that, at first glance, one might call "disturbing." If you ask "What time is it?" responding "do not know, is always changing." If you ask "What do you do? "answers convinced" the professor of Backgammon. "spends a lot of time with his laptop that connects to the enormous cuffioni. If Gary is listening to music (with headphones) there is no 'need to put the radio : it feels anyway. His favorites are the Ramones and "the first Cat Stevens." It's turning the AmericaLatina years and Luke knows by chance. Almost three years ago had arrived at the hostel, after a few days was caught by police while she was smoking a spinellone street. They had given him six months of house arrest. Here, in the hostel, so 'Luke would have known. Then the court has recognized "incapable of discernment" and have "liberated." But he is gone .. si trovava bene. Quindi spesso ritorna quaggiù a ritrovare Luca e il suo Cruz del Sur. Che Gaetanone non sia proprio "normale" è testimoniato dal fatto che viaggia grazie alla pensione di invadilità psico-fisica che il governo svizzero gli ha concesso.
Una mattina c'e' tutto l'ostello che sta facendo colazione. Facce assonnate, gente che si spalma la marmellata di ciliegie o arance sull'ottimo pane fresco, gente che giochicchia con le bustine di te dentro le tazze d'acqua bollente, la musica della radio è bassissima. Entra Gaetano con il suo cappellino verde con visiera e fa una puzzona. No..non è esatto: Gaetano non fa una puzza, Gaetano tuona. Qualche ragazza fa la faccia schifata, i piu' rimangono esterrefatti, io piango laughter. Gaetano says, spreading his arms "No puedo controlarme," as if it were inevitable. Do not apologize, that gesture of your arms alone by the idea of \u200b\u200bthe inevitability of what happened. It 's true that Gary can not', but was serious bowel problems, does not go to the bathroom, has bags of that every so often associated with stomach empties (I'm sorry .. now I can not remember the term). One night back in the hostel room and there is' an incredible stench. I feel guilty because I think my stuff is soaked after the trek. It seems strange that so stink 'time, because I also sealed in plastic bags waiting to take them to wash. The next day, Luke tells me that Gary's notte si è rotto il sacchettino della pupu'. Ah!! mi sono dimenticato di dire che da dopo il trekking il mio letto è diventato quello sopra Gaetanone. Con tutte le conseguenze del caso.
Un pomeriggio mi sto ascoltando della musica tranquilla, con gli occhi chiusi e la faccia tra il muro e il materasso. Sto ripensando al trekking e a delle cose "carine". Sto quasi dormendo. Arriva Gaetano, si mette sul letto. Si addormenta e inizia a respirare sbuffando verso il muro. L'odore che mi arriva dritto in faccia è tremendo. Dai "pensieri carini" si passa ai pensieri per "l'incolumità olfattiva". Ogni volta che Gaetanone di notte (russa come nessuno mai) si rigira, il mio letto oscilla di svariati gradi, svegliandomi; io mi faccio un sorriso e mi riaddormento. Non mi da fastidio condividere i miei spazi con lui. Anzi, a dire il vero mi sento fortunato di poterlo osservare, inoltre tra me e lui si è anche creato un buon rapporto, mi sento sicuro con lui accanto. Gaetano e' una persona Buona. Gli presento anche il tipo che porta le pizze a domicilio (I'm waitin' for my man, Lou Reed) dalla pizzeria a una quadra. Le pizze fanno cacare, c'è una quantità di formaggio nauseante, solo l'odore ti fa passare la voglia di mangiarle. Las empanadas pero' sono buone (soprattutto quella de panceta y queso). Una conoscenza che a Gaetanone in caso di famazza tornerà utile.
Luca piu' volte mi dice che se ho problemi posso cambiare stanza. Figuriamoci, non it would be nice and as-told-me Gaetano curious, like. After 4 days of arrival in Ushuaia, however, was' that Luke happened to me change rooms. Gobbo was gone. I was in a room with seven Israelis, including 6, little more 'in their twenties, unbearable. Tarik was the only that "there was inside." The others either did not respond to my greetings, leave the stuff (like dirty socks or boxers) all the time on my bed, when they went to bed made an incredible mess, when they woke up idem, always talking, shouting, if I crossed them pretended not to know, speak their language and looking at me laughing. Are at least three in the morning to pump on the ground doing push-ups.
One late afternoon we had listened to the second time in a row Cidda in their living room. He left the third time and saw that there was not one of them in the room I thought about changing. I first asked a few others present, they told me that there was no problem and I have placed on the Cidda given to me by Poli. She left the Sisters of Mercy "Leonard Choen and after just two minutes, while in the kitchen to make me a coffee (and this' one of the few hostels in the world where you find the good old coffee maker), I feel that people change. Remit their cd. I look surprised other ostellanti, Sue says "there is' nothing to do, do so!" Luke I apologize, Pablo .. .. I refrain from repeating his comment. In the evening I go to Tarik and wonder if I did something I am wrong and if her friends are angry with me for some strange reason. "No, Carlo, I'm sorry. I am left alone, now I'm traveling with them, and often I am ashamed for some things. But no else is 'nothing against you! Come on! Want some' beer?" "Thanks."
back later the same evening will be the fifth, they sleep, I'm going to get on the bed when I realize that there are no more 'the sheets. The guy who sleeps in front of me I took them and if you put on your bed. It 'clear of the pillow does not match his pillow and his are on the ground, I saw them this morning than a dry bottle and it was overturned. 13 years that will go to hostels and I have never such a thing happened. A) fuck, you get to scrub the sheets? B) She does not ask you to Lucas or Pablo? C) the "fool" just what you're asleep in front of?? D) But you've got a minimum of respect for others? E) But who the fuck you think you are? F) What do you think? That just because you're seven, I will keep quiet?
are arrabbiatello. I have to control myself. I do a tour in the hostel sleeping to calm down. The thing that makes me more 'angry is that it is precisely the type in front of me. I go back and go step by step. Start hacking away at the pile closing and opening the cupboard trying to do, gradually more and more 'noise, the girl sleeping next to the cabinet he wakes up, someone starts to turn around. It 's time. I go straight dall'uomo di merda. Sta dormendo.
Lo sveglio da signore. Facendogli toc toc sulla spalla con una certa insitenza. "Che c'e'?? perchè mi svegli??" "Perchè queste sono le mie lenzuola!! e tu non hai nessun diritto di prendermele!! Hai capito?!?"intanto lo disarrotolo dalle mie lenzuola e il tipo mi dice "sì sì hai ragione, ma che bisogno c'è di svegliare tutta la camera per le tue lenzuola alle 5 di mattina??". Ragà a questa domanda-provocazione del cazzo rispondo ancora una volta da signore. "C'è bisogno perchè pare che qui ci siano delle persone che non sappiano cosa vuol dire vivere con altre persone, dividere dei luoghi!!" -mentre sto rifacendomi il letto- "mi sono sempre involved in a polite and kind, I do not think it was mutual! And what did you think back to sleep and I would request you not? You are looking at me! "And now I'm pissed off if you complain?" "OK, OK you're right," he says someone. "I'm sorry" says the uomodimmerda. Two types of room next to come home at that time arrive, take a look and give me reason "can not think of doing what you want, you are not the owners of these" Occhei, I fall asleep astonished by my good English. The next story in Luke and the incident Pablo ; are incredulous, even to them was such a thing ever happened. is transferred over. What is even better, with lots of sea view ..
The same day, the types and leave me apologize. I tell myself that I am sorry but pissed off that I had seen as a lack of respect. We shake hands, apologize and say hello to require (for the first time after 5 days). I truly feel sorry for them. Cause and consequence in this case so that they overlap, historically. I thought about what had happened .. I could be silent and not say anything but I do not like the idea of \u200b\u200bbeing subjected to the offensive behavior of others and be silent. Obvious: they were the ugly mugs I even asked "Sorry if I wake up .. but .. please .. can you give me the sheets? Please, thank you" The truth is still a jerk does not make these things. The children do you feel pampered rulers of the world and have a minimum of respect for others. Once again .. That's it.
do not know if there is ever to deal with someone who is about to realize his dream. Happens here. Previously I told you what it costs to go up in Antarctica. There are people who save for years and then meet here ready to embark in Ushuaia. It 's the case of Jonathan, a Flemish Kortrijk. He booked his place for almost two years. Up with him (and others) on the eve of his departure. Jonathan has 45 years, is the father of the family, the child seems more 'happy in the world. 'E' since I was young I dreamed of this trip, I'm leaving tomorrow. " Jonathan is ugly, but that happiness, those eyes and that smile may seem l'uomo piu' bello del mondo. E' fantastico vedere le emozioni di cui è capace l'essere umano. Un altra volta, "Suerte, que te vaja bien".
Spesso le serate al Cruz del Sur sono migliori di ciò che puoi incontrare fuori. Merito sicuramente di Luca e anche delle persone che via via si susseguono. E' il caso di Elaine (svizzera piuttosto emancipata), Tony (un allegro signore senza un braccio, di Maiorca), Anne e Christie (due giunoniche ragazze australiane), Leonardo (il nuovo "Pablo" patito di musica disco anni '80 che chiede a tutti di insegnarli qualcosa di inglese, un ottimo ragazzo che è la prima volta che va così lontano da casa), Victoria (una solare ragazza pero' un po' troppo "Pressing" and guilty of telling me the result of Juve Milan, after 6 hours I was waiting for the reply!), David and Seba (two young Italian designers in erasmus in Baires) and many others. Over the past five days, there are three birthday parties, "m'imparano" also attacked the balloons from the ceiling using the electrostatic force of the hair, we have fun. There are many of the names I'd like to remember now, but I would avoid "the list". All girls who then take over their streets, many see them at 4 in the morning and eat breakfast. The only bus that leaves from Ushuaia to return to the north is at 5 and a half in the morning. "This is one of the reasons I'm still here," Luke says with a smile.
At that time crops up shyly out of the sun at this time the waves at 10 pm.
The boys put on their backpacks and start off. Salaam Ushuaia. The house of the rising sun is ready to host some other travelers arriving at the "Fin Del Mundo, Principio de Todo". As it is written on the huge mural at the waterfront.
From geek to AIS is a short step. While you're at a bit 'of factors: feeling of contentment, operating systems less and less mysterious and more functional (good thing, but drops the fun), computer viruses, old love, who have passed from weapons of mass destruction trivial broken cyberpalle , season with a wedding and a newfound passion for body building , and we get to the point where I find myself, that is, use your PC to make purchases, manage your bank account, bouncing a few blogs and some forums, book a holiday. In practice, how they should use it just about anyone who can get beyond the dramatic procedure called power, to be truthful fortunately that is quickly becoming a category. 
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